Wednesday, May 13, 2026

Day 13: Florence, the David & the Duomo

 Day 13

Today we met Aniko, who took us on a tour through the Accademia Museum, or Galleria dell'Accademia Firenze, and the Florence Duomo. She told us that in BC 59, the Romans travelled up to what is now Florence. They found a beautiful field of lilies, which is why the fleur de lis is the symbol of Florence. It is everywhere in the city! The Acadamia serves as a Museum and an academy of fine arts, where students come from all over the world to study. 

Here we are in the morning, fresh as daisies!

The Galleria is best known for Michelangelo's sculpture of David. But it also serves as a tribute to the many ways the Medici family contributed to the arts. (Pronounced MEH-di-chi.) Their contributions brought about the Renaissance Era, a rebirth of the arts, pioneering new approaches to art and culture. For example, during the Dark Ages, artists did not paint with perspective. Images were flat, and the background lacked a clear focal point. The painting below is one of the first to show perspective in the background and some dimension in the people. It's called Dance at a Wedding Party by Giovanni di Ser Giovanni, 1450.


Just 10 years later, look at the depth of characters in the "Annunciation" depicting the moment the angel told Mary she was with child, 1460-1475 by Domenico Di Zanobie and Filippino Lippi. The painting on the right is another by Lippi. 


We moved on to the musical section. The Medici were lovers of music and collected string instruments, many of which were donated to the Galleria. Sweet Aniko is showing us two paintings from 1685 of the Grand Prince Ferdinando Medici and his Musicians. Medici is the figure in blue, 2nd from the right, in both paintings.




These are some of the string instruments in the Medici collection. The violin on the left is a replica from 1988, originally made by Antonio Stradivari in 1716 for the Medici family.



The upright piano, by Bartoloeo Cristofori in 1739, was an attempt to build a piano that was able to fit in a smaller space than a grand piano.



The Medici did not collect any instruments besides strings, but there are examples of other instruments from the time period in the Museum.

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Our first glimpse of David!

Lining the sides of the "Hall of Prisoners" are four of Michelangelo's unfinished sculptures. These massive marble figures were designed for the tomb of Pope Julius II, but were gifted to the Medici. Michelangelo tended to express his agony and torment through the twisting and turning of the bodies as he sculpted.

The Awakening Slave

Young Slave

Atlas Slave
Bearded Slave

The running joke of the time was, if you commissioned Michelangelo to create a sculpture, would it ever get finished? He left many unfinished due to time constraints, lack of funding and his own high standards. He was very particular about the materials he used, even going to the Carrara marble quarry to personally pick out the blocks of marble for each sculpture. 

Of course, one of his most popular finished works is David. I can't tell you the number of times I've had my breath catch in my throat when I first see a building, an altar, a sculpture, a painting. This was one of those times. David is absolutely incredible. For starters, its sheer size demands attention. It stands 17 feet high and was carved from a single piece of marble between 1501 and 1504. Michelangelo was only 26 when he began sculpting David. It is actually King David as a boy, just before his battle with Goliath. I'm embarrased to say, I never realized this sculpture was of David from the Bible! Michelangelo focused on the concentration in David's face before the fight, representing the triumph of intelligence over brute force. It was placed outside the Palazzo Vecchio in 1504, but was then moved into the Accademia Gallery in 1873 to protect it from damage. 



Aniko had us walk all the way around the statue, pointing out little details we would have missed. From this side, you can see that he's holding the sling that's thrown over his left shoulder. Look at the details in his ribs, the muscles in his arms, the details in his knee. 



We are also able to see the details in his face much better from this perspective. 


Sadly, a few years ago, an Italian citizen believed he was Michelangelo and walked right up to the statue with a hammer and began striking the toes of David's left foot!


Now we have moved to the back of the statue Where we can see more of the sling along with muscle definition and detail in the back of the knee. If you look closely you can also see the rock in David's right hand.


Michelangelo has David standing in a counterbalanced position to show muscle tension and veins in his arms and hands. Aniko told us Michelangelo was friends with a priest who let him study and dissect newly dead bodies to get the details correct.

Michelangelo died in 1564, at 88 years old, in Rome. His doctor wrote to Duke Cosimo Medici saying, "This afternoon, that most excellent and true miracle of nature, Messer Michelangelo Buonarroti passed from this to a better life.” Rome grieved deeply, and his funeral was attended by the entire artistic community. He was buried in the church of the Santi Apostoli. However, before his death, he expressed his wish to be buried in Florence, not Rome. The Medici helped Michelangelo's nephew exhume his body two weeks after his Roman burial and bring it back to Florence, where he now rests.


Next, we were off to visit Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence's Duomo, that amazing structure we had been walking by all week!






We have spent 7 days in Florence and have absorbed so much of its history and culture! 

But it's ciao for now, because tomorrow we head to Cinque Terre. 🩷







Tuesday, May 5, 2026

Day 12: Day Trip to Siena, San Gimignano, and Pisa

Day 12

Today we did a full-day tour to 3 Tuscan cities - Siena, San Gimignano, and Pisa. Our hearts kind of sank when we checked in at the meeting point and realized we were in a very large group of about 50 people on a tour bus. We've been in relatively small groups so far, and we've loved the intimacy. Full disclosure, the tour was good, but in retrospect, we wish we had visited Siena and San Gimignano on our own and spent a little more time in each city. Even though the tour was 13 hours long, we felt really rushed. Pisa, while we loved seeing the leaning tower, was so far away that we didn't get to soak in the beauty and history of Siena and San Gimignano. 


Luca was our tour guide. If you've been keeping track, he is our 3rd tour guide, named Luca! Me thinks it's a popular name in Italy! Our first stop was Siena, the cutest little city! For reference, Florence has a population of 350,000, while Siena has only 50,000 residents. One of the most interesting things about Siena is that many structures were being built in the Gothic era, but construction halted when the bubonic plague took over. Once construction resumed, Italy was in the Renaissance era. In the picture below, you get a clear glimpse of a Gothic era building on the left next to a Renaissance era building on the right. Renaissance was known for those sideways lines you see.


Below, in Piazza Salimbeni, the structures built in different eras were refinished in a neo-Gothic style with added flair from the architect's era. This square is the headquarters for Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena, which claims the title of one of the oldest banks, having been established in 1472. In the middle is a statue of the bank’s founder, Sallustio Bandini.



On to the "mane" event, Piazza del Campo, where the Palio horse race is run every year on July 2nd and August 16th. Il Campo, as the Seinese call it, is breathtaking! Some say it's the most beautiful square in the world, which is why it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Piazza del Campo is shaped like a shell, divided into nine sections, in memory of the Nine Lords who governed the city at the end of the 13th century.

This is the Palazzo Pubblico, where the
city government officials ruled.


There are 17 neighborhoods, or districts, in Siena, and each year they all send their best horse and racer to compete in the Palio. Only 10 of them actually compete, as the track isn't big enough for all 17. The history of the race, as Paulo told it, is that the districts were always bickering and fighting against each other, trying to show their district was the best. In order to put a stop to it, the government officials devised a plan to prove who was the best, the Palio! It began in the Middle Ages, but the modern Palio has been held regularly since 1633, honoring the Madonna di Provenzano (July) and the Assumption of the Virgin (August).

Paulo, our 84-year-old tour guide in Siena, said, "It's a real joy for the eyes!" Here are some photos I found to give you an idea of what it's like.

Il Campo from above. The middle
section is a huge amphitheater that is
slanted down toward the flat side.
Surrounding it is a gray paved area to walk on.

Here is Il Campo during a race.
Look at all the people! I can't imagine
people standing in the middle of the 
amphitheater can see anything.
Sand and dirt are brought in to cover
the paved area for the horses to run on. 



Next, we visited the Duomo in Siena, Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta. It is breathtaking! The colors of Siena are black and white, and you can see them displayed throughout the church.




Below are three photos of the pulpit, which was sculpted in 1265-68 by Nicola Pisano. It is incredibly elaborate with a winding staircase to the top.




Below is a painting with a self-portrait of Raphael. He's the figure in front, facing us with one foot forward.


The floor is a masterpiece in itself! It's made of different colored marble pieces that fit perfectly together and cover the entirety of the building, with the exception of a few areas of expansion. It was truly amazing to see how intricate and carefully crafted each section was!





Above you can see a glimpse of the imensity of the floor. The whole cathedral is absolutely breathtaking from bottom to top!

From Siena, we headed to San Gimignano, but before we got into town we stopped to have lunch at a farmhouse. Incredible!




Below are the wines we tried, and our dessert - biscotti and a sweet dessert wine. We dipped the biscotti in the wine - bellisimo!





On to San Gimignano! It's encircled by 13th-century walls, including a skyline of medieval towers. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site as well. The town was built around 72 tower houses; only 14 have survived. The Duomo of San Gimignano is a 12th-century church, the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta San Gimignano. To be honest, the beauty of San Gimignano, with its walls and towers, was lost within the large crowds and the people selling souvenirs and trinkets. It really seemed like a tourist trap instead of the beautiful and historic village it actually is. We were able to climb up to the top of one of the walls and that was truly the best part of our visit. The views were breathtaking!










Next, we had quite a long bus ride to Pisa. Maybe they took us through a bad part of town, but our impression of Pisa was a run-down and dated town. We were dropped off by the leaning tower, which is really the star of the show. From what I've heard, visiting Pisa is like the Griswalds visiting the Grand Canyon in the movie Vacation. "Yep, there it is. Okay, let's go." But when you're there, the structure is impressive, causing you to catch your breath when you first take it all in. 

Did you know that the leaning tower is actually the bell tower of Il Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta? They both sit in Piazza del Duomo along with the Baptistry. The tower was built in 1173. I still can't even fathom that I am standing next to buildings that are centuries old!







Ok, so the last few pictures don't really represent our awe over the structures, but it was certainly there when we first walked into the piazza! The other unusual thing that is immediately recognizable is that the entire piazza is filled with grass. Lush, green grass! Students are studying on the lawn, and families are picnicking. It's lovely and unlike any of the other churches we've seen.

Well, there you are. Thirteen hours of historical and educational fun!

I'll tell you what! It was quite a day, and we were more than ready to tuck in when we got back home!